Collecting Breguet Timepieces, Part 2

Qlekta's research: the story of caliber 558 and its descendants. Continuing understand the nuances.

During the transition from Ref. 3350 to Ref. 3357, it's worth entertaining the thought that there may well have been pieces with first-generation movements and new reference numbers, or vice versa. There's no proof these watches existed, although it can't be ruled out that some were actually manufactured.

Caliber 558 was replaced by third- and fourth-generation movements which had 558.1 engraved on their backplates. They differed from second-generation movements in terms of the number and positioning of their pins. Second-generation movements have pins fixing the drive wheel which form a triangle, whereas third- and fourth-generation movements have a linear arrangement.

Apart from that, there's another curious difference. Fourth-generation movements differ from third-generation movements in terms of the number of pins around the tourbillon axis on the backplate: the fourth-generation movement has four, whereas the third-generation movement has five.

The fifth-generation caliber 558 movement which Breguet also refers to as 558T in its documentation seems to have only recently appeared. No watch with this movement could be found on the pre-owned watch market, although Breguet published an image of a Ref. 3357 on its website with this updated movement.

Breguet made a return to the shape of tourbillon carriages used in first-generation movements, with two beams and a protruding n-shaped regulator index. This coincided with a change in the backplate's construction, which is obviously evidence that new changes have been made to how the movement is constructed.

Five generations of this movement have at the very least been accompanied by five variations in the engraving used on the backplate — the second trait that helps us trace the evolution of Ref. 3350 and Ref. 3357 models. The first four types of engraving appear on the first-generation movement, and the fourth type of engraving is later used to decorate second-, third-, and fourth-generation movements. 

Interesting combinations may well have emerged during the transition from one type of engraving to the next, although it's obviously hard to find such examples now given how rare they are. A final fifth type of engraving is used to decorate the latest fifth-generation movements.

It's also worth paying attention to the fact that the movement's backplate is engraved by hand even to this day, and although it may adhere to one of five styles, every engraving is different when you focus on the finer details, which essentially makes each watch unique.

The third trait we can use to trace the evolution of Ref. 3350 and Ref. 3357 models is their winding crowns. The initial design was a thin winding crown which wasn’t signed with the letter B for Breguet. It was already replaced with a thicker signed version in Ref. 3350 watches, seemingly at the same time when the third type of engraving was replaced with the fourth.

This was also the period when dials began to be signed with the inscription "Swiss Guilloché Main" (the fourth trait). Models of particular interest for collectors are ones with a signed dial but an unsigned winding crown.

It's unlikely there are any models with unsigned dials and signed winding crowns with the exception of watch parts changed during servicing and repairs, as watches with signed dials appeared before watches with the new winding crown.

 At some stage, presumably in the early 2000s, the brand also stopped kitting the watch out with its classic pin buckle and began using the double deployment clasp (the fifth trait). This change holds no significant value for collectors however, as watch owners can easily change the fastener as they wish if they can afford it, e.g., when replacing a worn strap.

The sixth trait is far more significant from a collector's point of view — whether or not the edge around the watch's caseback is engraved with the reference number. As far as we could find, only the earliest Ref. 3350 pieces weren't engraved with the reference number (around 350 pieces), after that they always had an engraving on the edge of the watch's caseback.

You have to admit that even a small number of variations across each of these six key traits results in a tremendous number of possible design combinations which are fundamentally different, and we may well have overlooked some other significant trait.

This makes collecting wristwatch tourbillons more than just an enjoyable pastime, it becomes a rather eye-opening pursuit which takes a meticulous and intellectual approach. In our opinion, another reason why Breguet tourbillon wristwatches are worth collecting is the fact that they've remained largely undervalued on the previously-worn watch market up until now.

An interesting situation is unfolding for watches with this design in the brand's modern collection. No one can guarantee the brand is currently supplying models with the precise set of features reflected on its official website, although we only have the information provided on the website to go by. Models with a different design have yet to be tracked down on the pre-owned watch market.

From what we know, three anniversary Ref. 3358 models have been introduced in white gold with diamonds around the bezel and colored guilloché dials coated with translucent enamel in either red or blue, or alternatively decorated with a mother-of-pearl guilloché dial. All of them are powered by third-generation movements referred to as caliber 558.1 with the fourth type of engraving.

This design variation raises some questions, as the Ref. 3357 model is equipped with a fifth-generation movement and has its backplate decorated with the fifth type of engraving. The brand probably has a fixed stockpile of third-generation movements to make Ref. 3358 models which will be used until they run out.

A similar situation can be seen with unconventional variations in the design of Ref. 3350/3357 models throughout their entire history. Breguet has been making the Ref. 3358 since the early 2000s at the very least.

After doing some digging, the only version distinct from the one presented on the brand's website that could be found was one slightly later version of this edition's design with a fourth-generation movement (referred to as 558.1) and the fourth type of engraving.

It's also worth mentioning the brand has hardly ever released special series, and watches made for special orders are probably also extremely rare. It's fairly likely the Ref. 3350 in yellow gold worn on a bracelet with "rice-grain" links was commissioned in one of these orders.

Not only is this uncovered piece notable for its bracelet, it also features the unique combination of a second-generation movement with the second type of engraving. This combination was simply never encountered in commercially produced Ref. 3350 pieces.

The brand presented two special Ref. 3357 and Ref. 3358 models to celebrate the re-opening of the its Tokyo boutique following renovations in 2014. The 3357 Ginza Boutique model in white gold was given a guilloché dial coated in translucent Ginnezu gray enamel, while the 3358 Ginza Boutique model rendered in white gold with diamonds was given a guilloché dial coated in translucent Wisteria purple enamel.

The brand didn't specify whether the release was limited or not. But we've gotten used to that by now, right?