The Almost Forgotten and Underappreciated Watches of Daniel Roth

Daniel Roth was a big name towards the end of the 1990s when the remarkable master watchmaker's career took off with the iconic eponymous brand he founded. While he may no longer be on the general public's radar, Daniel Roth is still a name that resonates with collectors who know more than a thing or two about watchmaking.

Watchmaker by Calling

Indeed, watches are no longer produced under the Daniel Roth brand name. Yet, the master watchmaker's unique style has meant that there is still a demand for that trademark combination of superior movements with first-class finishing among a narrow circle of connoisseurs. Born into a family of watchmakers, Daniel Roth also chose to pursue a career as a watchmaker. He launched his career in what is perhaps the best region for new watchmakers to make a name for themselves — the Swiss Vallée de Joux — accurately dubbed "Watch Valley" as it is home to the most famous Swiss watch factories, where the cream of the crop comes from. If it is not the one and only Mecca for watchmakers, it is undoubtedly where many of the best timepieces are made. After working at Audemars Piguet for seven years, Roth embarked on a risky venture in 1973. He took up an offer made by Parisian jewelers, the Chaumet brothers Jacques and Pierre, who invited him to help them revive the brand Breguet. Breguet was not doing very well at the time, which only had one store keeping it ticking over in Paris. If we look at how this brand has been transformed over the last few decades, it is clear that Daniel Roth played a significant role. Breguet might have him to thank for helping the brand understand the importance of its founder's unique Breguet Empire style. Daniel Roth pieced this style back together to bring it back to life. He practically replicated the brand's DNA by bringing back the Breguet Empire case with coin edging along with the Guilloché design on the dial and the needles, i.e., everything we now recognize as Breguet style.

In 1987, when Chaumet's main business suffered due to a plunge in diamond prices, Breguet was acquired by the Bahraini private equity company Investcorp. Daniel Roth began thinking about establishing his own brand.

Under His Own Name

Roth's experience with Breguet and his success in creating a unique style for another watch brand was used to set up his own brand. Daniel Roth watches produced since 1989 have their own very distinctive style. If you look at these watches, you can see that the brand's design codes have been so clearly and consistently defined that you could call Danial Roth the Abraham-Louis Breguet of the 1990s. The first thing that strikes you is the case's unique shape — rectangular in the center with semicircles at the top and bottom. The second thing you notice is the dial's guilloché-work with a predominantly dark ruthenium finishing, which contrasts with the typical use of bright silver on Breguet watches. Thirdly, the hands are blued steel with pointedly emphasized triangular tips, and the second hand has the brand's typical T-shaped counterweight. Thanks to these design codes, Daniel Roth watches are instantly recognizable. Still, not just a pretty face, these watches have another two essential factors that true connoisseurs and watch collectors look for – high-class movements and superior finishing.

Yet unfortunately, Daniel Roth's outstanding taste and talent for making extremely attractive watches did not mean he could run a profitable business. His time as an independent watchmaker was short-lived. By 1994, he had already sold the managing stake in his brand and even his name to the Hour Glass Limited, Singapore's specialist luxury watch retail group, and Roth's leading retail partner in the strategically important region of Southeast Asia. The sale did not do much to rescue the brand, as the Asian financial crisis that went global in 1998 soon forced the Hour Glass to rethink its shareholding plans for watch brands. In 2000, Daniel Roth was sold along with Gérald Genta watches to the Italian jewelry brand Bvlgari.

One of the terms of the deal reached was that 100% of the company's shares would be sold to the new owner, which left Daniel Roth without even the smallest share in the company he had founded, so he decided to abandon it. Bvlgari briefly kept the brand running as an independent entity. After converting it into a watch collection within one of its own watch lines, Bvlgari eventually stopped using the Daniel Roth brand name altogether.

Note to Collectors

In summary, the history of Daniel Roth can be divided into three clear chapters: the Classic Period (1989-1994), the Hour Glass Period (1994-2000), and the Bvlgari Period (from 2000 to approximately 2011-2012). Beautiful watches were made in each of these chapters. Given that the brand is no longer active, you can find desirable offers compared to these watches' perceived value on the secondary market without any of the hassles. Daniel Roth tourbillons from the Classic Period are very interesting. At the same time, Le Sentier Sport watches with their uniquely designed wristlets are still relevant today, especially the stainless steel models. However, the ones fully rendered in yellow gold may well make a desirable purchase. Of course, the classic models with a leather strap have a wonderful charm about them – a perfect alternative to the classic "Breguets". Connoisseurs fascinated by clockwork should look out for the perpetual calendar watches by Daniel Roth, some of which come fitted with a rare movement that allows the registers on the dial to change instantaneously. Watchers with an eye for beauty are bound to be drawn to the large flat-faced Académie Athys watches, especially those who are lucky enough to come across the very first model in this collection.