The novelties Vacheron Constantin introduced in Geneva this year include a trilogy with a common theme called "Les Royaumes Aquatiques®" (French for "aquatic kingdoms").
All of them are unique pieces which aim to showcase the talent of watchmakers working at the manufacture using a variety of artistic techniques. This is the defining feature of Les Cabinotiers — a collection named after 18th-century Genevan watchmakers called cabinotiers, who worked on masterpieces on the upper floors an atelier bathed in sunlight.
Les Royaumes Aquatiques combines complicated mechanics with enamel dials made using different techniques. The only model without any additional complications is “Les Royaumes Aquatiques” Les Cabinotiers Grisaille – Turtle: a three-hand watch equipped with the automatic 2460 SC movement.
This species is also infamously the main ingredient in "turtle soup" — one of the reasons why this large reptile is now endangered. Its motif was created using a technique called grisaille, where the artisan works with shades of the same color to form a realistic picture, relying on the chiaroscuro effect contrasting light and shadow. Light is gradually shed on the motif.
First, the artisan creates a sense of the darkness found deep underwater by superimposing three basic layers of dark pigments on a translucent enamel background as the foundation for the painting in purple tones. Then white "Limoges" enamel gradually begins to be layered on. The turtle is subjected to ten or so stages of firing in a kiln and takes 120 hours of work. It's framed by a 40 mm case in white gold.
The grisaille enameling technique is used for another model called “Les Royaumes Aquatiques” Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon – Flying Dutchman. Its depiction of the legendary ghost ship is inspired by the style of seascape painters from the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of the ship which has found itself in the midst of heaving storm waves is accompanied by a tourbillon aperture.
Its Caliber 2755 TMR comprised of 471 components is also equipped with a minute repeater, making this a model filled with both movement and sound, never mind the fact that an orderly chiming mechanism has little in common with the raging elements.
The manual-winding movement was created based on Caliber 2755 used in Traditionnelle Caliber 2755 models with a tourbillon, repeater and perpetual calendar. Ensuring a 58-hour power reserve, the movement’s architecture can be observed through the watch’s transparent caseback. The case measuring 45 mm in diameter and 13.52 in height is made of white gold.
The tourbillion is also one of the main attractions starring on the dial of “Les Royaumes Aquatiques” Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon Jewelry - Sea Horse. This is the only jewelry watch in the trilogy, which features a bezel is set with baguette-cut sapphires, and it's gone all out with the idea of combining artistic techniques.
No less than four crafts are demonstrated here: in addition to working with precious stones, the artists prepared the dial for the seahorse motif with guilloché and engraving to form cells intended for enameling before using the cloisonné technique to fill them with enamel.
This maritime model houses the automatic Caliber 2160 movement with a peripheral rotor. The movement which is just 5.65 mm thin is enclosed in a rose-gold case measuring 39 mm in diameter.