The chronograph and calendar are unquestionable proof of mastery.
The question of which complications prove a manufacture is at the pinnacle of watchmaking is open to debate. Nevertheless, there are some classic combinations of functions which only the greats have mastered throughout the history of watchmaking.
The chronograph and perpetual calendar is a winning combination which was first commercially produced as a perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch by Patek Philippe with the Ref. 1518 in 1941. The two counters, apertures for the day of the week, month and a moon-phase display was a combination that struck a chord with many.
We see the same configuration repeated on the dial of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph by Vacheron Constantin and the Master Control Chronograph Calendar by Jaeger-LeCoultre, as well as vintage collections by Breguet from the late 1940s, Ulysse Nardin in the 1960s and even Mathey-Tissot in the 1950s.
The combo's heyday was in the mid-20th century, although some companies set out on this path a little earlier or later. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Control collection was first unveiled in 1992, which draws its inspiration from watchmaking in the 1950s.
The collection which returned to the spotlight in 2020 marks its 30th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre has taken a very delicate approach to marking the occasion. New versions of the Master Control Calendar and Master Control Chronograph Calendar models have appeared in the collection.
They've generally held onto their style but the designers have managed to make the watches more modern. How? By adding steel bracelets to keep the leather straps company!
The decision turned out to be a big success and the novelties really do have a fresh look. The bracelet combines polished H-shaped links with satin-brushed surfaces. The same play on light extends onto the lugs, alternating with the matte surface on the caseband.
The watch is equipped with the quick-change system for switching straps that’s now almost a necessity in and of itself. Models released up until now have included versions with blue dials but the manufacture has made a return to the silver-tone palette with a dash of color on certain details, such as the red lacquered tip in the shape of Jaeger-LeCoultre's logo for the jumping date and the red numbers "30" and "60" on the chronograph counters.
The stainless steel novelty is still the same size as the updated 40 mm Master Control from 2020, bigger than the watches launched in the 1990s. The Ref. Q4148120 Master Control Calendar houses the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre 866AA movement with a 70-hour power reserve, while the Ref. Q413812J Master Control Chronograph Calendar uses the automatic caliber 759 with a 65-hour power reserve.