Exquisitely openworked mechanics.
Do watchmakers always need to set records to keep fans of haute horlogerie interested? Arnold & Son has come first many times, but Bulgari are always quick to take up the baton.
Let's not forget that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection has already set eight world records for the thinnest watch movements and cases, so it's probably not even worth trying to beat this leader at their own game. The new Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton proves there's no need to compete anyway.
The level of finishing and the architecture of the skeletonized movement are far more important here. Caliber A&S8320 measuring 3.3 mm in height features bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève stripes, which are then treated with rose-gold PVD.
This warm tone is married with a red-gold case on one edition, while platinum is used for the second version. The case measures just 8.34 mm in height. It's the same case height used by the UTTE watch, which was equipped with the A&S8200 movement in 2013.
Back then, the company managed to set a record for this movement measuring 2.97 mm in height. But Arnold & Son didn't hold onto the record for very long before Bulgari broke it. The A&S8200 was housed in the UTTE (Ultrathin Tourbillon Escapement) model.
This movement became thicker when it was skeletonized, although the case remained the same. The movement in the skeletonized version, A&S8220, was first introduced in 2016. Apart from its openworked details, other distinguishing features included its new skeletonized barrels, which provided the watch with an outstanding power reserve for a tourbillon model of 90 hours.
The tourbillon carriage was changed as well: this large component (14 mm in diameter) was given an updated bridge, which made the tourbillon more airy.
This year, the A&S8320 movement displays another version of the carriage — now with a triangular bridge, which makes the movement look more modern despite its gold design.
The power reserve in the updated ultra-thin watch engine, which measures 32 mm in diameter and has a balance frequency of 21,600 vph, has been extended to 100 hours. Availability of each edition of the Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton (red gold or platinum) is limited to 28 pieces.