Patek Philippe's Unexpected Choice of Colors and Materials

The three new chronograph models have already been hailed as iconic. 

The Ref. 5905/1A released in a 42 mm steel case pairs the Annual Calendar with a self-winding flyback chronograph. The watch has been graced with a 60-minute counter at 6 o'clock and a central chronograph seconds hand. Its case material still remains more of an exception to the rule for this manufacture, which makes the piece all the more attractive in the eyes of collectors.

The explosive mixture of steel for the case material with an olive-green dial has already been tried and tested on the Nautilus 5711/1A, which sold for a phenomenal USD 376,000 at the Antiquorum auction in July this year. Moreover, the model features an integrated bracelet, reminiscent of the one used for another steel model — the Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A. The watch is equipped with the self-winding Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H, based on the CH 28-520 flyback chronograph caliber introduced in 2006.

The Ref. 5930P-001 self-winding World Time flyback chronograph features Patek Philippe's favorite function in Louis Cottier's style. One of its attractive features is its rich emerald-green tone. The color sets off the 39.5 mm case made of precious platinum rather nicely, with a magnificent guilloché pattern hand-engraved on the dial center.

The alligator leather strap conforms to the color palette, which is a shade of bottle green. All the displays can be corrected with the press of a pusher at 10 o’clock. The movement chosen to power all of this piece's functions is another "homegrown" self-winding movement, delicately finished with the Patek Philippe Seal — the CH 28‑-520 HU.

The brand hasn't gone over the top with green — the Ref. 5204R split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar sports a slate-gray dial and is housed in a rose-gold case. This is the first time a dial of this color has been used in the Grand Complications watch collection. The watch is equipped with the manually wound Caliber CHR 29-535 PS Q column-wheel movement.

Those who appreciate complicated watch mechanics will find the movement's architecture particularly appealing, you only need to flip the case over to see why (40 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm in height). The movement’s power reserve will keep the watch running for 65 hours.