Will the classic strap soon be a rarity? Only time will tell.
According to the latest True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight Report by Boston Consulting Group and Altagamma Foundation, six out of ten respondents consider how ethical and sustainable a luxury brand’s products are when deciding whether or not to make a purchase.
This represents a diverse range of environmental concerns. Companies are committing to reduce their carbon footprint in the production chain, using more recycled materials and are turning their backs on certain materials for good.
Affordable eco-friendly brands were the first in the watch industry to take a serious stance on saving the environment. Watch manufacturers offering a more expensive assortment have gradually become more environmentally conscious, and it’s now clear that these are relevant trends for the watch industry's crème de la crème.
Greubel Forsey — a watch manufacturer in the 500-800,000 CHF price category — announced that the company would no longer be using any animal-based leather for their straps. Starting in January 2022, the company will make the transition to only using plant-based materials for its straps.
The standards for this material will be just as serious in terms of durability, water resistance and resistance to ultraviolet rays, with a broad range of colors in the palette. Greubel Forsey won't be abandoning its traditional folding clasps — the company will be the first in the watch industry to combine a clasp with a strap made from eco-friendly material.
The switch to sustainable materials wouldn’t be possible without developing the necessary technology. IWC Schaffhausen unveiled its series of TimberTex straps made from "paper-based" material last March, composed of 80% natural plant fibers.
The cellulose used in these straps comes from Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)-certified trees grown in the non-profit organisation’s forests. Needless to say, the material is colored with natural plant-based dyes. The Watches & Wonders trade show in April also featured eco-initiatives.
Cartier has given its first solar-powered Tank Must SolarBeat watch a strap made using recycled scraps from apples grown for the food industry. Panerai introduced its Submersible eLAB-ID Luminor Marina eSteel watch in a case made from the manufacturer's recycled-based eSteel alloy. The case is complemented by a textile strap made from recycled plastic by the Italian company Morellato.
Recycled waste materials and wood aren't the only source of inspiration for watchmakers. Some companies are trying to kill two birds with one stone by making eco-friendly straps and doing their bit to clean up the world's oceans at the same time. Ulysse Nardin is one example of a company that's gone down this route.
The company launched its R-Strap in October last year — the world's first strap made from 100% recycled fishing nets. Breitling is taking the same approach by giving a number of its models Econyl yarn straps made from recycled nylon waste collected from the ocean. It seems leather really is becoming a thing of the past.
Hublot also recently unveiled the product of its partnership with Berluti, IWC has successfully partnered with Santoni, and even Apple has a Hermes strap for its smart watches. Will we see more of these collaborations? The rejection of leather will probably be a gradual process, as we're seeing less leather elements in summer debuts, including textile straps by Casa Fagliano for Jaeger-LeCoultre.