Cartier: More than alive

The iconic Parisian Mainson, which is the major source of income of the Richemont Luxury Group, surprised its fans with a truly vast collection of novelties, announcing both sophisticated models and the newest types of Santos, Tank and Pasha.

They did not forget to announce unique models with dials that are made in accordance with high levels of artisan arts, the brand has also pleased the fans with the premiere of a new collection, Maillon de Cartier. Complex nudity in Rotonde At first, in the beginning of the year, Cartier has announced that there will be novelties in the most prestigious collection of sophisticated watches, Cartier Fine Watchmaking. In April, three skeletons in a large case of the Rotonde men watches were announced.

Fine Watchmaking

The first model — Rotonde de Cartier Mystery Skeleton — is remarkable in that the great house finally opened up the sacred secret of its iconic and mysterious watches. Since the end of the XIX century, when the watches were created by the admirable master Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the fans of Cartier were questioning themselves: "How does it work?"

By removing the dial and skeletonising the manufactured manual winding movement 9983 MC with two-days power reserve, the masters of Cartier demonstrated what is usually hidden under the dial — the eccentrically located wheel gear, which sets the transparent sapphire disks with minute and second hands in motion.

The creators fairly decided that the owners will wear the watch with the unveiled secret with pleasure, so the put the skeleton calibre in an ergonomic 42-mm case made from rose gold. It is indeed a generous gift from the iconic house.

After the nudity of the mysterious watch, the Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Skeleton model yet has an important secret. The set of complications is far from being typical for the most prestigious Grande Complication watch: the minute repeater, the perpetual calendar and tourbillon (the flying one, without the upper bridge). For a classical combination, the split-chronograph is missing.

Nevertheless, the main question is caused by the perpetual calendar. Cartier has an in-house and, one of the best on the market modules of perpetual calendar with a concentric stepped disc indication, which was announced 6 years ago in the Astrocalendaire.

However, in this particular skeleton, it was decided to put the version with the hand indicators of date (near "9 o'clock"), days of the week (near "3 o'clock") and months (at "6 o'clock"). The indicator of leap years is missing, and under the "12 o'clock" the flying tourbillon is located. That's it - a trend! Obviously, the author of the astro-calendar, the genius Carole Forestier Kasapi, decided to hide the secrets of her module, which was put on display in the skeletonised model.

The minimal case, in which the sophisticated in-house movement  9406 MC could fit, has the diameter of 45 mm, and it is worth to notice that it is not high for such a class of the watch — only 12.57 mm. The case ismade from rose gold, and the mechanism is finished according to the high standards of the Geneva Seal.

Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon is completing the great triple of the sophisticated skeletons. Its gorgeous double tourbillon (the cage is located on the sapphire glass that is rotating with the speed of one rotation per 5 minutes) was introduced in 2013. Yet, the new 9407 MC mechanism is in no way other than the double tourbillon similar to the older 9465 MC.

The amount of details rose from 286 to 448. The tourbillon module was previously located near "6 o'clock", but it is now at "9": it not only turned out well, but also logical and even legal because the original Mysterious Watch has the dial at the same place. The diameter of the manufactured caliber is 39.3 mm, the height is only 4.7 mm. The power reserve of the modernised barrel is enough for three and a half days. The module of the minute repeater is located on the back side of the case not to overload the front with various details.

The repeater bridges, which can be seen on the main dial, are painted in black. This shade is hardly matching with rose gold and thus looks a bit odd, just like once was the combination of steel and gold, which was introduced by Cartier designers in the beginning of 1970s in the Must de Cartier collection, which revised the greatness of the Mainson. The case of this model also has a diameter of 45 mm and is made from rose gold.

Usually being quite scrupulous when it comes to questions about the edition and prices of different references, this year Cartier behaved in an unusual way. All of these questions were asked to be sent to an email on a specific website http://www.cartierwatchmakingencounters.com or ask at boutiques.

Santos Dumont XL, L, M and S

And yet the iconic house made an emphasis on the most successful and looked for models not only in the Cartier history but in the history of all of the wristwatches as a class — Santos, Tank and Pasha. It's interesting that in this particular order the models were brought to light in the beginning of the previous century as the first conceptual wristwatches.

To make it more clear, they were not the usual for the time pocket watches with metal horns welded to the big cases that were used to hold the strap, but elegant small and thin mechanisms created by a genius, Edmond Jaeger.

The first truly men watches, which Louis Cartier created in 1904 for his friend and aviation pioneer Alberto Santos Dumont[A1] , were produced in 16 (!) different versions. The main novelty considers to be the Santos Dumont XL. On the Cartier language, the XL size means a rectangular case with the dimensions of 46.6 x 33.9 mm (the height is 7.5 mm).

Actually, the case is shaped as a square, but Cartier usually includes the lugs. The designers are rights because in the Santos model, they for the first time in the history of watch art became an essential part of the design. One of the main design novelties are the countersunk screws in the bezel.

Originally, in 1904, they symbolised the aluminium rivets in the body of the Demoisselle airplane, on which Santos Dumont flew around the Eiffel Tower. Recently, the screws became a popular feature, which was taken over by many other houses, including Audemars Piguet and Hublot.

The dial seems to remain the same — the same brand chapters chemin de fer with Roman numerals, the same xiphoid blued hands. The only thing that was added is the accented square, on the smooth surface of which the "sunbeam" pattern is seen better than in the chapters area. On the back side of the case the "S" and "D" initials are engraved.

The "toothy" crown with a blue sapphire cabochon remained unchanged. In this big model, the watchmakers of Cartier installed the manufactured caliber 430 MC with hand winding, the frequency of 21 600 kph and the reserve power of 38 hours. Santos Dumont XL was produced in three versions - gold (rose gold in this case), bicolour and steel.

For fans of more radical watches, there was another version in the XL size (47.5 x 39.8 mm) announced. This version is covered in a black ADLC-layer that protects the steel from scratches. It comes with the same steel bracelet (although a strap from alligator skin is also included), with a black dial and the 1847 automatic caliber. The crown of the watch is decorated with black faceted spinel.

In various versions of Santos Dumont in size L (43.5 x 31.4 mm) a blue dial was announced for the first time. It is absolutely worth a notice that even though the designers have always been masters at choosing colors, this one turned out to be especially beautiful — bright, rich and also degrade, darkening near the flange.

For ladies, the rose-gold versions in size S (38 x 27.5 mm) with a bezel inlayed with 52 or 44 diamonds (0.46 karat) were created. On the other hand, the ladies steel references are made in steel cases in size M (41.9 x 35.1 mm) and an inlayed bezel (206 diamonds with the total mass of 0.64 karat).

The second reincarnation of Pasha

Created in 1932 by Louis Cartier himself for a special order from the pasha of Marrakesh in a single piece[A1] , the water-resistant watch was already once reincarnated in 1985. Interestingly enough, the person responsible for the re-design was the genius watch master of the new time, Gerald Genta. At that time, though, many thought that the future would be dominated by quartz watches, and Pasha was met without any enthusiasm.

 Then, from time to time, certain models in the remarkable case were produced in the CPCP (Cartier de Paris Collection Prive) collection. Reincarnated in 2020, the Pasha was announced not in 16 (as Santos Dumont), but in 13 new references in cases with the diameters of 41 and 35 mm made from steel, rose or yellow gold, with diamond inlay and without it. The concept of the reincarnated model is as follows: functional and ergonomic watches with interchangeable straps, transparent back case from sapphire, a new crown and personal engraving.

The design is combining contrasts. For instance, the square-shaped minute "railroad" scale in an ideally round dial, four big Arab numerals seemingly enlarge the already big case; the pins of the bracelet have the endings that are in the shape of Parisian nails (the pattern is called Guilloché); the crown is still protected by a water-resistant cap, and the chain from it is still there, it always strikes the eye and is one of the memorable designer touches. Nevertheless, the chain itself became a traditional flail with one link.

The "handle" of this flail is bended so that it is integrated into the side of the case as invisibly and as ergonomically as possible. When lifting it up, a small area with polished surface is opened up. This is the area where one can engrave his/her initials. The back of the case of Pasha de Cartier is made from sapphire glass (before that is was made from metal for impermeability purposes), through which the automatic caliber 1847 MC can be seen.

This reliable manufactured mechanism is especially resistant to water and magnetic fields. The release details are made in ID One and ID Two concepts from composite material nickel-phosphorus that is absolutely great against magnetic fields. Additionally, the bridges and the platinum of the caliber are made from the same paramagnetic material.

The crown gives the Pasha de Cartier hater-resistance up to 10 atmospheres (which is approximately 100 meters), although the case is thin. Obviously, as well as the majority of the modern Cartier models, this watch has the brand system of fast switching of the straps, QuickSwitch.

Maillon de Cartier: gorgeous links

Because of todays rather unfortunate situation in the world, it is surprising that the iconic house is aiming towards saving the tradition and to announce a new collection no matter what. It is the ladies watch Maillon de Cartier.  The same eagerness was attributed to TAG Heuer when it announced its sensational concepts every year. Yet, if we admit that "Every new shape from Cartier is already a sensation," then Cartier should be complimented for their great consistency.

 Maillon is translated from French as a "link" (meaning a chain link). As it can be understood from the name, this is not really a watch with a bracelet, but rather a bracelet that is decorated with a case 17 x 16 mm that looks like its main link. It seems that the "Link" was inspired by the "Rhombus," it's only that the chamfer angle is not 30, but about 60 degrees.

The originally squareshaped case has the upper right and the lower left corners cut at the same angle. It turned out to be a hexagon and as a result, an epitome of the craftsmanship of Cartier designers and their ability to play with shapes, geometric lines, which cut into memory. The bracelet itself is not similar to any other, as, for example, a thick girl's braid, which it really reminds of.

 "Working on Maillon, we paid special attention to the volume of the links," says the Timepieces Creation Director, Marie-Laure Cérède, "We wanted to deconstruct the bracelet and transcend its design through a volume approach. Emotion is in the movement and tension." The new watch is made from materials popular this year — yellow, rose, and white gold. The model was introduced in six various.

Ronde Louis Cartier: magic of Métiers d’Art

The real interest in watches, the dials of which represent the unique masterpiece of watchmaking art, was supported by the announce of two models of Ronde Louis Cartier. The first one, Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry Watch, can be called unisexual because of its universal sized white-gold 42 mm case. On the unique dial can be seen the symbol of Cartier, panther’s head, for the first time made by Cartier’s craftsmen by mixing techniques of Straw and Gold Marquetry.

Obviously, it was firstly painted with gold (65 pieces of white, yellow and rose gold of different shapes were needed), and then with wood (75 pieces blades of straw of different lengths were needed, which were painted in 11 colors). Currently, only masters of Cartier are able to use this technique. Wooden marquetry was reincarnated by them on a whole new level, and painting with gold is a unique novelty of one of the departments of the iconic house, particularly the Maison des Métiers d’Art located in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Every single model requires about a hundred hours of work of the highest qualification, 97 hours of which goes for the dial. The watch will be limited to 30 pieces. The panther of the pure feminine 36 mm white-gold Ronde Louis Cartier Enamel Filigree Watch also is produced by the mixing of two rare techniques — filigree and enamel.

The enamel powder is heated until its in glass-like state, after which it is made into the shape of a bamboo stick and is put on the top of the dial with tiny gold joints. This is exactly the way how the bamboo grove, in which the panther is walking, is made. The notched enamel technique is also used in this process. This model will be limited to 30 pieces as well. In conclusion, it is worth to say the following.

The fact that the iconic Parisian house is able to create not only perfect watches for the swell society, Cartier proved when announcing perfect concepts ID One and ID Two, which, nevertheless, almost don't have anything similar to the high watch art because they can be manufactured in any amounts by machines. At the same time, the house "attacked" the prestigious segment of Grande Complication watches under the command of genius Carole Forestier Kasapi and showed us once again how strong it is in rarest artisan crafts.