July was marked by a lull in activity on the pre-owned watch market. But this fall is sure to have plenty of interesting events in store.

 

While watchmakers and collectors enjoy some time off, organizers of the prestigious Only Watch charity auction decided to fill the offseason gap with some watch news. Christie’s is set to host the event in Geneva this November.

 

Summertime — time for a break

 

The only more or less interesting auction in July was Sotheby’s Fine Watches, which ran from July 5 to 14 in Hong Kong, where the top two lots were an unexpected first.

 

One of them was a famous white-gold split-seconds chronograph with rattrapante hands on second, minute and hour counters: A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split Ref. 424.038F.

 

The other was Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné in a platinum case. They fetched an identical sum of HKD 1,143,000 (around CHF 127,400).

 

A. Lange & Sohne Triple Split Ref. 424.038F / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
A. Lange & Sohne Triple Split Ref. 424.038F / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Incline  / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds Incline / Sourse: www.sothebys.com

Third and fourth place were shared by the Patek Philippe Ref. 3970E perpetual calendar chronograph in a platinum case with diamond markers and Audemars Piguet's skeletonized Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT Ref. 265891O.OO.D002CA.01. The sales price they achieved was HKD 1,016,000 (around CHF 113,250).

 

The top five most expensive watches were rounded out by A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Decimal Strike Honeygold Ref. 143.050: a decimal minute repeater that chimes every ten minutes, encased in trademark Honeygold. It went for HKD 1,079,500 (around CHF 120,400).

 

These are what you could call summer results, which aren't very impressive. But Saxony's A. Lange & Söhne do have something to be happy about: their prestige is growing slowly but surely as German brands often do. The next auction by Sotheby’s worth paying attention to is the Monaco Luxury Private Selling Exhibition, which will close on September 15 in Monte Carlo.

 

Patek Philippe Ref. 3970E / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
Patek Philippe Ref. 3970E / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT Ref. 265891O.OO.D002CA.01 / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT Ref. 265891O.OO.D002CA.01 / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Decimal Strike Honeygold Ref. 143.050 / Sourse: www.sothebys.com
A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Decimal Strike Honeygold Ref. 143.050 / Sourse: www.sothebys.com

Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo made their mark with a charity microauction called Timepieces for HSNY (Horological Society of New York), which was held online from July 6 to 11.

 

The organizers did at least manage to raise some money for charity thanks to the Laurent Ferrier Bridge One: a model in a stylish steel case with an anatomical-fit arch for comfortable wristwear. The watch sold for USD 24,130.

 

More generally, it's worth mentioning that a total of five timepieces were offered at this auction, plus two sets of three F.P. Journe books: P.F.  Journe: Invenit et Fecit by Jean-Pierre Grosz; Steel Time, co-authored by Jean-Claude Sabrier and Georges Rigot; and F.P. Journe Sonnerie Souveraine – Grand Sonnerie, co-authored by Jean-Claude Sabrier and Vincent Daveau. All books were personally signed by the maestro. The set took third place, realizing a sales price of USD 5,334.

 

Second place went to a quartz wall clock in an aluminum case, which is a magnified exact copy of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner wristwatch (USD 5,715). These auctions can be summed up as follows: the auction and charitable cause deserve more.

 

Sourse: www.phillips.com
Sourse: www.phillips.com
Sourse: www.phillips.com
Sourse: www.phillips.com

Only a warm-up for November

 

Against the backdrop of auctions like these, now's the perfect time to announce future auctions. And while large auction houses may still be drafting their programs for auctions this fall, the line-up for the prestigious Only Watch 2023 charity auction has more or less been confirmed. It will be held by Christie's in Geneva's Palexpo exhibition center on November 5.

 

Everyone was shocked by the news that Patek Philippe will be presenting a grand complication at these auctions as a tribute to Patek Philippe's renowned former president and father of the company's current president, Philippe Stern. The watch marks the occasion of his 85th birthday.

 

Patek Philippe is still keeping the details of the future watch a closely guarded secret for now. There isn't even a sketch of it on the official website for the auction, never mind any photos.

 

Sourse: www.onlywatch.com
Sourse: www.onlywatch.com

But the available description lets us know that it'll be equipped with a completely new and very complicated movement. Thirty of these calibers will be released, and that's it, no more will ever be made. The model for Only Watch has a unique design.

 

François-Paul Journe's brand has also settled on their timekeeping contribution towards research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Journe has prepared a stylish and very unusual watch for the auction's organizers: the Chronomètre Bleu Furtif Ref. CFB. It happens to be a world premiere with its case and bracelet made entirely out of tantalum.

 

The French word "furtif" can be translated as "stealth". It's all down to the color of the hour and minute hands made of blued steel. They blend into the dial, making it almost impossible to tell the time if the watch isn't facing you. In other words, only the watch owner can use it to tell the time. The case measures 42 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm in height.

The movement housed inside is the manually wound rose-gold Caliber 1522, which runs at a frequency of 21,600 vph and has a 56-hour power reserve. One of its most interesting bonuses is that the new owner will be given an identical case with service if it gets damaged after the auction.

 

They say you only get one life though, and the same goes for this unique piece, which one lucky bidder will become the new owner of. We just don't know their name yet. The model has been given a conservative estimate: CHF 200,000 - 400,000.

 

Once a master watchmaker at Patek Philippe but now working for himself, Laurent Ferrier has created a unique model called Sport Auto "On Track" Ref. LCF040.T1.A3GC1. The watch case is made of titanium, which measures 41.5 mm in diameter and is water resistant up to 120 meters.

 

Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto "On Track" Ref. LCF040.T1.A3GC1 / Sourse: www.onlywatch.com
Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto "On Track" Ref. LCF040.T1.A3GC1 / Sourse: www.onlywatch.com
Voutilainen CSW Only Watch / Sourse: www.onlywatch.com
Voutilainen CSW Only Watch / Sourse: www.onlywatch.com

Its self-winding manufacture LF270.01 movement beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vph), has a three-day power reserve, and has been given an immaculate finishing as per tradition. The model is estimated to go for CHF 55,000 - 85,000. The model that Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is donating to the auction is called Voutilainen CSW Only Watch Ref. TMZ217.

 

It's the world's first watch with a fully integrated world timer mechanism invented by the watchmaker himself. The stunning emerald-green dial is made of silver, and Voutilainen has engine turned it by hand. His new manually wound TMZ217 movement is an evolution of the previous Vingt-8 caliber.

 

It has unusual characteristics: the balance frequency of a pocket watch (18,000 vph / 2.5 Hz), a 60-hour power reserve, and a flawless decorative finish. The cushion-shaped case measuring 39 mm × 39 mm × 12 mm is made of titanium. And the case is another world premiere, as Voutilainen has never made watches in this case shape before.  The organizers have estimated this magnificent watch will fetch CHF 175,000 - 215,000. A conservative estimate in our view.