Timeline of H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendars: 2017–2024.
In 2017, a steel perpetual calendar with a deep Midnight Blue fumé dial finally appeared in the Pioneer collection: the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Steel Ref. 3800-1200. The perpetual calendars in the classic Endeavour collection in rounder 42-mm cases were modernized that year.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity Ref. 1800-0200 model from 2017 and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity Ref. 1800-0202 with a Cosmic Green dumé dial from 2018 were both introduced as limited editions of 50 in white gold.
They displayed a new dial design that can be considered a cross between the traditional dial on the original Perpetual 1 and the avant-garde minimalistic dial used in the Concept series.
A new version of the signature dial for perpetual calendars with the month in an aperture was followed by a new HMC 808 movement — a variation of the HMC 800 that the brand introduced in 2019. The watch with a burgundy fumé dial was called the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD Ref. 3808-1200, where "MD" stands for "month-date."
The brand also offered a largely identical model, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar MD Ref. 3808-1201, only this one sported a Funky Blue fumé dial. Both came in steel and were limited to 50 pieces.
In 2021, a perpetual calendar appeared in the Streamliner collection, which brings together watches in the new territory for H. Moser & Cie. of luxury sports watches on integrated bracelets. The first was the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6812-1200 in stainless steel with a dark gray anthracite fumé dial.
One glance at the dial is enough to know that the watch runs on a new movement. It's the HMC 812 — a new variation of the HMC 800. It uses a central seconds hand, very suited to the sporty style. Apart from that, the design of the movement changed on the caseback side.
It was fitted with semi-skeletonized bridges for the first time, which Edouard Meylan used to give the watch a more dynamic look. This effect is heightened by the use of a dark ruthenium coating instead of a light rhodium coating.
The brand also welcomed a new version of the perpetual calendar into their Heritage collection in 2021: the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel Ref. 8800-0203 limited to 20 pieces in white gold with deep-blue gradient enamel dials.
This model is much easier to use than the Heritage Perpetual Calendar from 2016: Ref. 8800-0203 doesn't have the two hinged case covers, and it houses a standard movement with an Original Straumann Hairspring.
The Endeavor collection maintained its classic status, regularly welcoming new perpetual calendars. In 2022, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial Ref. 1800-0205 Concept model arrived in white gold with a manual on how to use the perpetual calendar illustrated on its blue dial (limited edition of 20 pieces).
The brand is particularly fond of reminding us that their perpetual calendars are some of the few with two-way date setting on demand, unlike traditionally constructed calendars, which can only be set forward. In the same year, the brand introduced a more regular model: the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-0204 with a Funky Blue fumé dial in white gold.
A new dial was created for this model — a variation of the original design of the Perpetual 1, only without the scale markings for the power reserve at 9 o'clock and with smaller applied indexes. But what's probably more significant is that the brand's logo on this model was signed in transparent lacquer — a unique trait of many watches by the brand H. Moser & Cie.
In 2023, H. Moser & Cie. added a new metal to their collection. Tantalum was introduced on the new Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-2000 with an Abyss Blue fumé Grand Feu enamel dial.
This metal was used for the bezel, while the crown and caseback were made of stainless steel. Another thing that made this model exclusive apart from the use of tantalum was the grainy texture on the dial coated in translucent blue enamel.
The movement was also equipped with the signature double hairspring. This premiere was followed by another tantalum model: the Endeavor Perpetual Calendar Ref. 1800-2001 released as a limited series of ten pieces with jade dials. We can also find a double hairspring in this watch.
We can find three perpetual calendars among the freshest novelties by H. Moser & Cie. for 2024. The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition Ref. 3808-0900 is a special edition of 20 pieces made for the Singaporean retailer Sincere Fine Watches.
Needless to say, it can only be found at Sincere's boutiques. The watch in a red-gold case with black DLC-treated titanium is the first in the Pioneer collection to be given a textured dial with translucent purple enamel.
But the most surprising novelty out of all of the brand's perpetual calendars is probably the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit Ref. 1800-1200 in steel — a special edition of 100 pieces created in partnership with the brand Studio Underd0g.
The two-layer dial's design is unprecedented, rendered in purple and maracuja yellow: the base coated in purple lacquer is topped with an upper textured dial plate with translucent Grand Feu enamel, while the small hand that points the month is painted lime green. This exceptional novelty gives us hope that we'll be treated to a wealth of unorthodox designs in the future.
Previosly (part I), (part II)
Credits provided by: www.h-moser.com