The auctions will take place on May 7 and 8 at the Genevan Hôtel La Réserve. Experts have already picked the lots they think will attract the most heated bidding.
Rolex
There's the Rolex Daytona Ref. 6239 from the collection belonging to the great guitarist Eric Clapton, the Patek Philippe Calatrava owned by the legendary Holocaust survivor and Nazi hunter Simon Wiesenthal, And an extremely rare perpetual calendar chronograph — Patek Philippe Ref. 1518.
The auction's organizers believe each of these models will exceed the million mark during bidding. There's no reason to doubt them. How else could Phillips have finished last year with USD 209.3 million from watch sales alone? And that's with 100 % of all listed watch lots sold.
Now the organizers have challenged themselves to the most serious of targets to break that record. Few people know that Eric Clapton isn't only a legendary musician, he's also one of the most respected watch collectors.
He bought the chronograph with yellow gold used as its case material and bracelet at an auction held in the mid-1990s. Daytonas with white "panda" dials were already considered a major rarity back then.
Now "Crazy Doc" watches are also classified as major rarities, which is the nickname given to these watches for their extravagant appearance and pulsometer scale running around the periphery of the dial. The fact that this is the best preserved example of all surviving Ref. 6239 chronographs makes a significant contribution to the watch's price.
This means the upper estimate of CHF 1,500,000 is completely justifiable. Bidders will be competing for the the rarest Daytona Ref. 6239 ever put up for auction. There's another rare Rolex Daytona breathing down the Crazy Doc's neck: a "Paul Newman" Ref. 6241 given an estimate of CHF 700,000 - 1,400,000. But could it beat the Doc?
Patek Philippe
The Calatrava which belonged to Simon Wiesenthal has been remarkably well preserved, who was a Austrian architect and writer who miraculously survived the Holocaust and was liberated from Mauthausen concentration camp at the end of World War Two.
He dedicated his life after liberation to hunting down Nazi criminals and bringing them to justice. The Patek Philippe Ref. 1503 is notable for its glossy black dial, subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock and its round, carefully crafted Breguet numerals.
The leader of May sales is tipped to be the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph. It's high price is the combined result of it being unbelievable rare, in excellent condition, and the original salmon-pink dial. This reference number seen on a steel case and bracelet held the title as the world's most expensive wristwatch for a number of years in a row.
Back then, it set its new owner back by a massive USD 11.14 million. It later conceded victory to the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime sold for USD 31.19 million. Today's record-holder in rose gold retails has an estimated price range of CHF 1,200,000 - 2,400,000. But we know how competitive collectors can be.
Fans of another cult PP model by the name of Nautilus surely won't overlook the white-gold Ref.5980/1400G chronograph encrusted with baguette-and pavé-cut diamonds. It's estimate isn't cheap at CHF 500,000 - 1,000,000. But it's only the second time this model has resurfaced at an auction.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin will be represented by three vintage Ref. 222 models at the event. The model similar to Royal Oak was created for the manufacture in 1977 by the famous designer Jörg Hysek. The trio consists of a full stainless steel watch (CHF 30,000-60,000), a yellow-gold one (CHF 40,000-80,000), and bi-color watch in steel and yellow gold (CHF 20,000-40,000).
For the 45th anniversary of this family of watches, the company has prepared a number of fresh homages which were unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 in March. A symbolic number has been chosen for the novelties with another trio. The most expensive and largest one is estimated at EUR 51,500. Will these retro pieces manage to prove they're worth more? It's highly likely.
Audemars Piguet
While dedicated anniversary auctions are being held in honor of the Royal Oak collection, the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XV couldn't forgo Audemars Piguet watches. With its steel case and yellow gold bezel the present Royal Oak Offshore is one of the rarest variants ever produced.
In the early 1990s, Audemars Piguet tasked its in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit to reinvent the classic Royal Oak model and infuse it with new life and power. For years, Gueit and his team worked on a prototype and subsequently presented the final product, reference 25721, in 1993 in Basel.
The result was astonishing and something completely different from what the public had ever seen before. It was shortly nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The launch of reference 25721 marked the beginning of the Offshore lineage.
In fact, it arguably established the trend for large-size watches, which today is the complete norm. Estimate CHF 40,000 - 80,000. The present example in steel with yellow gold bezel is truly a rare Beast (pun intended), the oxidation on the bezel gives an impression of a tortoise shell for a most unusual and pleasing effect.
A illustrious name among independent watchmakers is François-Paul Journe. Bidders are being offered no less than four of his creations in one go: one of the first Chronomètre à Résonance (CHF 150,000 - 300,000); "Souscription" Octa Calendrier (CHF 70,000-140,000); Chronomètre Bleu Byblos (CHF 100,000-200,000) and Octa Zodiaque (CHF 150,000 - 300,000).
Harry Winston
It'll be interesting to see what fate has in store for the Harry Winston’s platinum Opus 3 at the auction, which had its digital disk display designed by Vianney Halter himself. The model remained on the waiting list for a long time before the watchmaker found a solution to problem with power reserve, as the original construction was extremely power-hungry.
Far from every client was patient enough to wait for it. But five of them did finally receive the watch. One of these five rarities is estimated to go under the hammer in May within the range of CHF 100,000 - 200,000. That's at the very least.