The final article, introducing you to the unique masterpieces, which will go under the hammer on November 5 in Geneva's Palexpo exhibition center.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch Edition
The piece that this famous independent watchmaker has prepared for Only Watch is a unique version of the watch unveiled last year for the 50th anniversary of the iconic Royal Oak model. Only this time, the case and bracelet of the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked aren't made of steel, they're made of ceramic.
The bridges and rotor responsible for the automatic winding in this skeletonized movement are made of titanium, which has been given a blue coating. The remaining gear train is rhodium-toned in the self-winding manufacture Caliber 2972 movement.
It has a balance frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and a 65-hour power reserve. What makes this watch extra special is that the bevels are polished by hand. Then every visible component of the total 271 has also finished and decorated with techniques including “traits tirés”, circular and sunray brushing and snailing.
It's hellishly meticulous work — much more complicated than a jewelry piece. The flying tourbillon looks truly fit for a king. The idea of giving this beautiful complicated watch a modern stylish look deserves the warmest of welcomes.
Last year's version was Ref. 26735ST.OO.1320ST.01, which cost CHF 220,600. The latest version is Ref. 26735CB.OO.1225CB.99, and the auction's organizers believe it has the potential to raise an estimated CHF 300,000 - 350,000, but many already believe it could sell for a million or more.
Biver Catharsis
This is an extremely rare story in the watchmaking industry. A watch brand which hasn't even marked its first birthday is already having its second watch auctioned off. Not only that, but the piece is estimated to go for an eye-watering sum of CHF 500,000 - 700,000.
It's worth remembering that Biver's first watch was auctioned off by Phillips in May for 1 million Swiss francs. But the piece for Only Watch really is unique in every sense of the word. For starters, there are absolutely no hands on its dial, or any other timekeeping indications for that matter — there's only one hand for the hour, which can be found on the caseback.
What you can see on the dial is a rolling sea of shimmering sapphires with a silver sun setting on the waves, and opal stars coming out to shine in a night sky made of meteorite. The watch's creators — the great Jean-Claude Biver himself and his son Pierre — believe that time shouldn't be read on this watch, it should be heard, and each time you activate it should be a cathartic experience.
That's why the model has been equipped with an automatic JCB.002-A movement comprising 374 components. In addition to the minute repeater with three hammers, it also has a tourbillon. That being the case, the tourbillon, one of the most beautiful mechanisms in a watch, is completely concealed from view — it's not visible from the dial or caseback side.
A truly cathartic experience! The case measures 42 mm in diameter and is made of titanium to ensure the greatest sound propagation, and it's even waterproof to 50 meters. This masterpiece has been given an estimate that matches up to the mastery of its design: CHF 500,000 – 700,000.
Tudor Prince Chronograph One
This watch has every chance of becoming hit number-two at the upcoming Only Watch exhibition (as per tradition, hit number-one is bound to be the piece by Patek Philippe). The subsidiary of watchmaking great Rolex is bringing its automatic chronograph back to the market after 47 years, which will be equipped with the brand's own manufacture movement for the first time in its history.
Tudor has decided to offer a prototype model as its auction piece, which is why the new movement “Number 0” has been given the seemingly symbolic reference number MT59XX. As for the model's design, here you can find a multitude of allusive traits that are so close to every collector's heart.
One would be the combination of yellow gold with a black dial, which instantly makes you recall the iconic Rolex Daytona "John Player Special" chronograph series with "Paul Newman" dials.
Another is the absolutely identical Big Block style to the original (we're talking about how the geometric blocks are constructed that protect the winding crown and chronograph pushers). Then there's also the black bezel insert made of aluminum.
The only difference is the date aperture. The bracelet is fairly original. although it is nicely reminiscent of the iconic Oyster. The same can be said of the 42-mm case with a water resistance of 200 m. And the last detail is the most interesting. The organizers expect that the Tudor Prince Chronograph One Ref. 9420/801 will sell within a price range of CHF 25,000 - 35,000.
And you could say this is a very bold statement, considering that Tudor's models have sold for 70 times their estimate at previous Only Watch auctions! Does this mean that they'll find someone willing to part with around 2 million Swiss francs for this chronograph prototype? Or will it be Rolex itself (incognito, of course)?
Konstantin Chaykin Joker Stargazer Only Watch 2023 Pièce Unique
This astronomical calendar with a tourbillon by the Russian watchmaker has a combined complexity of 16 functions. Apart from indications for the hours and minutes, there's also a zodiac calendar, a celestial chart, equation of time, sidereal time, and an indication for the length of night and day.
The watch also features sunrise and sunset azimuth indications, 24-hour indication, solar activity cycle, an eight-stage discrete moon-phase display, a continuous moon-phase display, retrograde days of the week indication, and a calendar-date. There's a total of 11 astronomical functions here.
It's essentially a perpetual calendar, just without the indications for the month and year. It's a complete mystery how this watchmaker was able to make such a watch without the opportunities that great manufactures have at their fingertips, without the kind of resources or experience that Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin have at their disposal.
But that's precisely what Chaykin is famous for, and it's what makes his work so valuable. He's created a range of extremely complicated timepieces, including the most complicated Russian clock, the Moscow Pacshalia Computus Clock.
His in-house Caliber K.22-1 is a manually wound movement with a two-day power reserve, which has been worked and decorated by hand in keeping with all the cannons of haute horlogerie. The case is made of Bulat steel (a type of Damascus steel).
Konstantin Chaykin also happens to be another watchmaker whose work consistently sells at Only Watch auctions for multiples of their estimates. And this time the expected sales price is fairly high: CHF 150,000 - 220,000.
Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer
For this year's auction, the independent watchmaker Bernhard Lederer has prepared the most original unique version of his already famous Central Impulse Chronometer model with the revolutionary escapement invented and made by the watchmaker himself.
Lederer's ingenious invention provided an impressive and elegantly executed solution to a problem that historic watchmakers Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels scratched their heads over. Lederer has scraped the dial on the model he's donating to the auction, unveiling his stunning hand-wound movement for all to see.
The two mainspring barrels are positioned at 1 o'clock and 5 o'clock, each with its own independent gear train, two constant-force remontoires, and then the two détente escapement wheels with centrally aligned impulses.
But the most important and interesting thing here is the fact that Lederer has highlighted key components of the movement with Super-LumiNova in yellow, light blue, green, orange and violet hues. These are the colors that light up the watch in the dark. In the daylight, these luminescent colors look far brighter, almost like neon strobes.
The steel case measuring 44 mm in diameter has been treated with a protective black DLC-coating. The organizers' estimate for the Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer Ref. CIC 9018 Only Watch 2023 is CHF 100,000 - 200,000. But considering its creator's growing influence and fame, as well as the watch's stylish design, its final sales price will likely be higher.