«Rainbow» on the wrist.

Collectors and investors certainly like to keep up to speed on watchmaking trends, but the reason they do this is most likely to develop their overall knowledge. Then again, sometimes reality can barge into their cozy vintage world in the most unceremonious way, giving the contents of their safes a serious update.

This happens when models beloved by collectors the world over are simultaneously transformed by a swathe of famous watch brands. As, for example, in the case of the over-the-top Rainbow trend.

Rainbow on the Rise

Rolex Daytona Rainbow Last June for instance, a Cosmograph Daytona "Rainbow" Ref. 116595RBOW was sold at the Phillips New York Watch Auction: SIX for USD 693,000.

Another thing that makes collecting rainbow watches very profitable is you're not only investing in a watch, you're also investing in precious stones. Their value is a separate topic of discussion. For example, it's long been acknowledged that rubies and emeralds of a decent size with perfect clarity are more valuable than natural diamonds.

That's because they're discovered on an increasingly rare basis and offer designers far more room for creativity. Almost all other major manufacturers have taken a leaf out of Rolex's book and are releasing their own rainbow watches. So, what does today's «rainbow» market have to offer?

Rolex

The original Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow (ref. 116595RBOW) in a 40-mm case made of the proprietary Everose gold alloy was given a bezel encrusted with 36 multicolored baguette-cut sapphires plus more diamonds on the lugs and case.

The movement working at its heart is of course the automatic manufacture caliber 4130. Those on the waiting list could obtain one for USD 96,900. However, those who want to get their hands on a rainbow chronograph right now will have to part with USD 250,000.

The price of pieces on the pre-owned watch market is actually the driving force that's transforming these watches into some of the most expensive Rolex had ever put into production.

Patek Philippe

The Patek Philippe Nautilus "Ladies Automatic" jewelry watch is a prime example of how super on-trend rainbow watches are. Even the likes of this Genevan Maison considers it necessary to produce a rainbow model!  Moreover, their rainbow version also happens to be a consoling alternative to the discontinued iconic Ref. 5711/1A.

The Nautilus "Ladies Automatic" Ref. 7118/1300R-001 is housed in a 35.2-mm case made of rose gold and has a bezel encrusted with 68 baguette-cut spessartites ranging in tone from "champagne" to "cognac", also used for the ogival-shaped hour markers. All in all, 79 spessartites weighing a total of 2.38 carats were used to decorate this watch.

The watch is equipped with an automatic 324 S C manufacture movement with central sweep seconds hand and a date aperture. The price of the new Nautilus is available upon request from the manufacturer.

The watchmaker introduced another chronograph for her to keep the Nautilus company: Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Chronograph Ref. 7968/300R-001. It's another exquisite watch, albeit not quite as eye-catching as the previous rainbow model.

Its 39.9 mm case is made of rose gold and has a bezel encrusted with two rows of precious stones. The row closer to the white mother-of-pearl dial engraved with the Aquanaut pattern consists of 40 baguette-cut diamonds (2.05 carats). It's encircled by 40 multicolored sapphires with the same baguette cut.

Overall, the jewelers at Patek Philippe used a total of 52 sapphires (2.62 carats) and 50 diamonds (2.41 carats). Inside the marvelous case is the self-winding manufacture CH 28-520 flyback chronograph movement, which controls a 60-minute counter positioned at 6 o'clock. The price for Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” is EUR 214,630.

Audemars Piguet

Another renowned independent watchmaker decided to welcome its own rainbow to the collection: Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition. The watchmaker introduced no less than five models in titanium (37mm and 43mm), white gold (37 mm and 43mm) and ceramic (43 mm).

Prices for them start at USD 40,000. The 43 mm white-gold gem-set edition has a dial and bezel encrusted with an array of 230 “Harmony”-cut rubies, sapphires, tsavorites, and peridots (total weight: 6.15 carats).

"Price upon request" in the press release is an indication that the company is carefully trying to figure out how much buyers are willing to part with for Audemars Piguet's original rainbow watch. It really is a sensitive issue.

The requested price they'd like to see is probably in and around the range of EUR 150,000-200,000. But there's no guarantee buyers will want to pay more for a new rainbow watch by AP than for a Rolex one.

This is especially true when you consider the fact that AP just recently unveiled the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked: a model in a 27-mm case made of their signature white-gold finish, Frosted Gold.

The bezel is encrusted with 32 baguette-cut colored sapphires (2.24 carats). Its twin-balance skeletonized manufacture movement is just as beautiful: Caliber 3132. The price tag for the model has already been determined: USD 104,600.

Parmigiani

Another independent watchmaker has introduced a rainbow version of their Tonda 1950 model for her. The rose-gold case of the ever-exquisite Tonda measuring 39 mm in diameter had its bezel encrusted with 36 multicolored 36 baguette-cut stones (total weight 3.73 carats).

They include 21 blue, pink, orange and yellow sapphires, 3 rubies, 6 tsavorites and 6 amethysts. The overall slender case is shaped in part by its ultra-thin automatic manufacture PF701, measuring 2.6 mm in height. Price: CHF 60,000.

Rainbow over Richemont

The brands in the Richemont Group which were the quickest to react to this hot trend were Jaeger-LeCoultre and Piaget. The former introduced a pair of Rendez-Vous Celestial "Aurora Borealis" watches with their 37.5-mm cases encrusted with 64 color-graduated baguette-cut sapphires (3.09 carats). The ladies' model runs on the automatic Caliber JLC 809/1.

It was launched in a 36-piece series: 18 with turquoise mother-of-pearl dials and 18 with violet mother-of-pearl dials. Price upon request. Piaget freshened up the vintage Limelight Gala model with their Precious Rainbow version. The 32-mm rose-gold case houses the ultra-thin mechanical manufacture Caliber 501P1.

Fans of Piaget often refer to this model's case as a "69" for its asymmetrical merging case and bracelet that visually come together to resemble this number. Now it's been decorated with a rainbow of 40 brilliant-cut sapphires and tsavorites. The most brilliant in all senses of the word is the work of the brand's jewelers.

It's also worth taking a closer look at the dial and bracelet with the signature "shimmering" Palace Décor gold decorative hand-engraving technique. The Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Rainbow cost CHF 99,900. There's a good reason why this model won the Ladies' Watch Prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). 

Imperiale Joaillerie and Electro Rainbows

It would be strange for maestros of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie like Chopard and Chanel to remain aloof and miss out on a mainstream trend. Chopard has kitted its Imperiale model out in a rainbow suit.  The Imperiale Joaillerie Rainbow has a 36-mm case encrusted with 36 baguette-cut sapphires along with brilliant-cut diamonds. 

Meanwhile, Chanel presented the J12 Electro collection, which includes a J12 Electro Box box of 12 watches. Each watch in the set is unique, encrusted with 46 baguette-cut sapphires in the same color.

Together in the box set, the 12 watches themselves form a rainbow gradient from pink to red. Of course, the product is unique - it exists in a single copy and is available for purchase only in Chanel boutiques at an approximate cost of USD 1,100,000.

Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow

And last but not least, the title for most conceptual of all the trending rainbow watches goes to Hublot: the LVMH Group's flagship brand. There's no dial as such, as this is a most masterfully skeletonized tourbillon, but a rainbow has nevertheless been formed from 484 precious baguette-cut stones weighing in at over 36 carats!

They cover all available surface space on the watch. And this is a sizable case measuring 43 mm in diameter and 13.75 mm in height with a hefty bracelet to match. The movement working inside is the automatic Caliber HUB6035 with a 72-hour power reserve.

Moreover, Hublot has released two model versions in one go: Ref. 455.OX.9900.OX.9999 (case made of trademark King Gold) and Ref. 455.WX.9900.WX.9999 (case in white gold).

Hublot insists all of them are unique, at the very least because the stone selection will be unique to each watch every time. Availability of rainbow watches by Hublot won't be restricted to single-brand boutiques, they can also be ordered from the brand's major retailers. Prices start at USD 790,000.