Watch & Wonders 2021 'Pataphysical Salon

This year Geneva Salon of Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie was held in what were rather unprecedented circumstances.  

Lights, camera, action!

- Nice to see you! Oh, and your cat, who’s sitting on the back of your chair. Nice to see you too! What's his name?

- Hello, Jean-Marc [Panerai's CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué - ed.]! I'm also delighted to see you and Panerai's impressive novelties. The cat's name is Fidel. What's that gold watch you have there called?

- Luminor Chrono Goldtech™ Blu Notte. Cool cat, I wish I could pet him!

- That's a supermodel of a watch! If only I could try it on to feel if it's heavy or not for myself, appreciate the shine of the new alloy and the shades of its "Blue Night" dial under lighting at different angles, and touch your new bracelets made of 100% recycled materials to see what they feel like...

…That's how the new watches were presented at this year's Watch & Wonders Geneva Salon of haute horlogerie and haute joaillerie, in a virtual format, or a 'pataphysical format to use the terminology appropriated by its organizers. The pandemic has slapped an "e-" prefix onto virtually everything to do with the art and business of watchmaking. We're living in the era of e-commerce, e-salons, e-presentations and e-interviews. 

The watch companies chose to broadcast from makeshift studios in offices or manufactures, while the journalists interviewing them generally did so from their own homes. Some of the organizers preferred having informal conversations, especially in the personal e-meetings, while others turned their e-presentations into rigorously rehearsed and directed e-shows hosted by professional presenters. 

Everything went more or less smoothly, everyone understood the situation and went with the flow. But these 'pataphysical shows were obviously lacking in physical contact and experience. It wasn't even the fact that watches which look amazing in photographs sometimes turn out to be a badly thought out gimmick in real life, or the other way around.

The fact is that when you're walking past the showcases on different stands and taking in the exhibition as a whole it can all come together, and all of a sudden you can tell what it is exactly that makes a novelty valuable and original. Sometimes you suddenly notice that watches made by different brands have something in common, you can see the direction they're moving in and a future trend gradually taking shape. But unfortunately that's virtually impossible in a virtual format.

Mind you, there were no noticeable new trends that would shake up the world watchmaking. Watch manufacturers continue to search for the perfect materials, so that one day they can create the perfect watch with the exact qualities consumers are looking for. Panerai alone has introduced seven brand-new alloys and composites in its new collections.

The multicolored theme is catching on. Cartier followed Rolex and embraced it this year when it introduced a series of colorful Tanks, and so too have Breitling and Jaeger-LeCoultre. In this regard, the only thing particularly worth noting is how relevant all shades of green are. The long-established grand maisons have amped up their space race, or rather their efforts to create celestial complications.

They're certainly up to the task. The watches that remain extremely relevant are vintage-style models, versatile divers and, without fail, watches in the sport de luxe category. One of the freshest trends that deserves a mention is probably the use of semiprecious stones to make dials. Each and every section cut from these stones is unique, which automatically makes every watch in an ordinary series a unique piece.

Another trend is the unexpected increase in interior clocks being produced. Then again, it isn't that surprising when you consider how much time we've spent cooped up in our homes over the past year and a half. Now for the best models, and strange as it may seem, there's plenty of really interesting models but few truly sensational ones among them. So we won't do a top ten this time, or even a fantastic five. The top three will do.  

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque was the obvious leader at Watches and Wonders 2021 — with a tourbillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, astronomical display, and four dials. It was released to mark its own 90th anniversary in a limited edition of 10 pieces at EUR 1,350,000 a pop. 

Coming in second, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine Ref. 5400T/000P-B637 has truly earned its place as runner-up in its 42.5 mm case made of Platinum 950б which is just 10.7 mm thick. Its peripheral rotor made of 22-karat gold doesn't obscure the movement, quite the opposite, it highlights the beauty of the new self-winding manufacture caliber 3500, which has a balance frequency of 3 Hz and a two-day power reserve.

The only place where you can buy one of these 15 pieces is in a Vacheron Constantin boutique, for a symbolic price of exactly USD 300,000.  And lastly, coming in third on the list of the top three watches, is the iconic Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119G-001 (white gold) and Ref. 6119R-001 (rose gold). Why the Calatrava and not the equally sensational and sophisticated Patek Philippe In-line Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P-001?

The reason is that Calatrava was, is, and will continue to be the quintessential Patek Philippe watch and the symbol of this great watchmaker. Moreover, its creators believe that the Ref. 6119 "reflects the changing preferences of our era". Reminiscent of the very first Calatrava Ref. 96, its 39 mm case is 8.08 mm thick and has a traditional guilloched hobnail bezel which slopes down like a mountain with three ledges or tiers.

Lastly, the Calatrava Ref. 6119 is equipped with the latest 30-255 PS manually wound manufacture movement, which runs at a frequency of 4 Hz with two mainspring barrels. It has an increased power reserve of 65 hours and an average accuracy of -3/+2 seconds per day.

Nevertheless, it could be said that the new model is even more nicely decorated than the previous 215 PS. No limit has been set for this model, which is priced at CHF 25,000.